Day 9-10: Africa 2024 (July 10-11)

Day 9-10: Africa 2024 (July 10-11)

I was able to mostly sleep on Tuesday night, which was good, because we had another early morning at the airport.

Gracious drove from his home to pick us up, and Daniel drove the truck to drop us off at the Blantyre airport. It was a weird day of travel. The Blantyre airport is TINY, we made it through check-in relatively easily (we were behind a youth group that had spent the previous nine days helping to build a school). I asked them where they were from, and they said Utah… well mostly, some were also from Arizona. I assume that they are Mormon missionaries.

I am always interested in what drives people to travel and to serve. Partly because I know why I do, and I’m curious if others have a similar motivation. But also because there is quite a bit of criticism in the non-profit world of people (especially late teens) that head to developing nations to serve. The criticism is that these volunteers have a “white savior” complex. Or they often come and do more harm than good because they don’t have the requisite skills to complete the work that they signed up to do. Or they exploit the people they are supposed to be serving by taking and sharing photos of them.

Perhaps some of the criticism is warranted, but generally, I don’t see that. Coming from my own perspective, the times that I was a volunteer, I truly wanted to show people the love of God and help improve their situation if it was in my power to do so. Now that I am in a position to seek out volunteers to send to various places, I know that the people volunteering are doing so because they have a heart to help others.

I think when we volunteer we should be honest about our own limitations and skills, so that the best person for the job is chosen. I think it’s important to take the time to try and understand the culture that you will be immersing yourself in so that you honor your hosts. And when it comes to the photos… most people (especially kids) love having their photo taken, just make sure that the subject of the photo is comfortable and looks their best. No one wants an unflattering photo of themselves out there, and never, ever take a photo that would embarrass the person, or highlight their disadvantages (for example, a group of young kids wanted me to take their photo, so I did. At one point one of the little girls turned her head and you could see that she had some hair loss, likely from an infection. I would never post that photo of that little girl. Her struggles are not there for my sharing — But I will share a gorgeously lit photo of her beautiful smile, because that’s who she is).

On my next trip to Africa, I’m going to bring a portable photo printer, so when I take these photos of people, they get one to keep of themselves. I’m not a photographer by any means, but open shade and an iPhone camera can make up for my lack of skill. I’m going to share some photos from my last trip to Malawi, so I can share some beautiful photos of our dear brethren.

Well, that took a bit of detour. Haha! From Blantyre we flew 30 minutes to Lilongwe (on a prop plane! — a first for me), we exited the plane in Lilongwe and were escorted across the runway to a waiting plane, where we took an hour flight to Lusaka. Upon landing, we stayed in our seats as some people deplaned, and others boarded. We then took an hour flight to Harare.

This is my first time visiting Zimbabwe, and the airport is very modern and easy to navigate. We zipped through immigration (they asked us no questions, just said $30 each for the visa), bypassed customs since we had nothing to declare and were outside before we knew it.

Mabasa Chichaya, the pastor for Zimbabwe was waiting and helped lug our bags to his waiting truck. It’s almost a two hour drive from Harare to Kadoma (it is pronounced exactly as it is spelled, but also it’s very difficult to say with an American accent, but I have it on good authority that I can say it properly — sweet Layla and Christal Chichaya told me that I have managed it).

It was early evening when we finally arrived, so we had hunkered down and I got to know Chisomo (Mabasa’s wife), Layla and Christal a little bit better.

On Thursday we awoke and I was able to get some work done in the morning, and in the afternoon we picked the girls up from school and drove to the property that the Church owns just outside of Kadoma. This facility will be used for the Feast and if the opportunity arises, a youth camp. It was nice to get an update on the progress of the construction.

While out and about we stopped at a couple of shops in town and bought the ingredients to bake a cake. It turned out so-so; the vanilla was not real and the pan I had was the wrong size so it had to back longer than normal and got dry on the edges and brownie like in the center.

The electricity was out briefly in the evening, and at that time the internet cut out. Verizon says that there is coverage in Malawi, but Lewis has been unable to get any service, so we’ve been relying on the Wi-Fi at the Chichaya’s home. After the power outage, the internet was off the rest of the day.

My stomach has been about the same here in Zimbabwe as it was in Malawi, as it was in Ethiopia… which is not great, but pepto is helping some. I can’t say how much I appreciate those that have been praying for me.

The street the Chichaya home is located on
Chocolate cake I made with Christal (on the left) and Layla (on the right)
Days 7-8: Africa 2024 (July 8-9)

Days 7-8: Africa 2024 (July 8-9)

I’m combining these two days because I don’t have much to report. I had a rough night Sunday night, and had a hard time sleeping, but finally drifted off around 1:30am… I ended up sleeping 10 hours. That’s pretty unusual for me. I rarely sleep more than six hours a night, but clearly I needed it. Lewis gave a Bible study in the afternoon, and then Lewis and I (along with 20 or so of the brethren) jumped in the bus that the Blantyre congregation owns and Daniel Ringo drove around the Blantyre district dropping folks off.

It’s a huge benefit to the brethren to have this bus. Without transport the brethren would likely not be able to attend as often because of the cost of public transport and the long distances they need to walk.

I felt better on Monday evening, and I slept well. Tuesday was another slow day, I tried to catch up on some work (I’ve been working this whole trip, but I’m less efficient than normal because the internet is not very good here). Lewis took a walk with Daniel around the neighborhood, went for a haircut and both Monday and Tuesday went to multiple pharmacies to try and find an anti-nausea medication for me.

I brought Dramamine, but only one little bottle because I was told I would be able to find it locally in Malawi. Unfortunately, that information was totally wrong. Though Lewis was able to find one antihistamine that can be used for anti-nausea, I couldn’t take it because I’m on an anti-malarial and they are contraindicated (can cause damage to the heart if taken together). So I’ll suffer through the nausea.

Enjoying tea after Bible study (Carol and Dekha in the center)
Day 6: Africa 2024 (July 7)

Day 6: Africa 2024 (July 7)

I try to be as open in this blog as possible, sharing all my experiences, even when they’re not the greatest, but I hope that the positive things I post far outweigh any negatives. I had a pretty rough night again Saturday night, and had a really hard time falling asleep. Which was only a challenge because we had to be up and ready to leave by 4:00am. But I managed to get a few hours in before the alarm went off at 2:30am. I’m ever so grateful for the Chapambas hospitality while we stayed with them, but also their willingness to get up at terrible hours of the morning to shuttle us two hours to the airport. I’m not sure if I mentioned before, but Cephas Chapamba is the pastor of the Nkhwazi, Malawi congregation of the United Church of God. He and his wife, Patricia, do a wonderful job of caring for God’s people in that area, always concerned for their spiritual and physical well-being.

Our wait in the airport was longer than our drive to the airport (almost two hours), and much longer than the 30 minute flight to Blantyre.

We were met in Blantyre by Mr. Daniel Ringo and Mr. Gracious Mpilangwe. Daniel is the accountant for the United Church of God in Blantyre, and the overseer of the property where the church hall is located. He has a lovely wife (Carol) and beautiful daughter, Dekha and they live in a comfortable house within the Church hall “compound.” Gracious is the pastor of the Blantyre, United Church of God congregation. He and his wife, Loney, do a wonderful job of shepherding the brethren there, caring for them spiritually, but also offering practical advice for living a good and decent life.

After dropping off our luggage at the house in Blantyre, we headed out to a neighboring district, Mayaka. This was an exciting proposition for me particularly because of the work that I do. One of the roles I fulfill is coordinator of the Good Works program (a relief and service program of the United Church of God). In 2023 a cyclone struck the southern part of Malawi and caused widespread flooding and several devastating mudslides. Thanks to the generous donations of our Good Works supporters, we were able to help a number of families rebuild their homes. This was an opportunity for me to see the result of seven of those rebuilds and meet the brethren that were helped.

Hearing the stories of what life was like following the cyclone was heartbreaking. One lady spoke of sleeping in the mud of her floor as the water filled from underneath and one of her wall collapsed. Another family moved from room to room as the walls collapsed around them until they were confined to a single room until new accommodations could be built. I can’t imagine how scary it must have been for them, and they were all so grateful for the support that they received. In addition to the rebuilding of homes, food aid has been provided several times to help since most crops were also destroyed in the Cyclone.

Carol cooked dinner each evening, unfortunately, given the state of my gut so far, I never got to try anything she made. I stuck to the prepackaged foods I had brought: apple sauce, granola bars, fruit leather, almonds, and turkey sticks. It’s not terribly satisfying days on end, but I hope it will help minimize some of the stomach/intestinal problems I’ve been having.

The day was emotionally draining, but the drive was pretty tiring as well. The members live fairly remotely in “the bush,” and the roads are incredibly dusty and bumpy. I was very ready for bed that night.

Day 5: Africa 2024 (July 6)

Day 5: Africa 2024 (July 6)

Unfortunately, I had another rough night of Friday night, with some nausea, which made it hard to fall asleep. Then the power went out, so I couldn’t have the noise of the fan to help me sleep (I was diagnosed with Meniere’s Disease about 14 years ago. One of the symptoms is tinnitus — ringing in the ears, for which a fan is extremely helpful). I’ve actually been super impressed with how much the power situation has improved since we lived here. We used to lose power almost daily, and at one point we lost it for six days in a row. This was the first time in four days, so, I’m not really complaining.

Despite having very little sleep, we had a beautiful Sabbath with the Lilongwe and Nkhwazi brethren. Before services began the ladies performed a welcome song for Lewis and me; it was so sweet. Then we had multiple special music pieces in place of the sermonette, before the sermon by Lewis.

And, as an extra special treat, George Chapamba was baptized after services. Then there was a meal, followed by a Q&A Bible study. Early Sunday we head for Blantyre.

Day 3: Africa 2024 (July 4)

Day 3: Africa 2024 (July 4)

We went to bed at a decent hour last night, and fell asleep quickly, but we both woke up around 1:30am, and then again at 3:30am… so I just stayed up. Hopefully tonight will be a little more continuous.

Today was just a lovely day. The weather was cool by Malawi standards, but comfortable by New York standards (getting up to 77 degrees and mostly sunny). We started out bright and early (6:00am) to meet Haiton Thungula at the Church hall in Lilongwe. From there we set out south for Ntcheu. There is lots of road construction taking place in and around Lilongwe (when we lived here in 2017 only about 20% of the roads were paved), which slowed our progress some, but then the road was closed for the presidential motorcade to pass through, putting us another 30 minutes behind schedule. We arrived at our first visit an hour later than we had hoped.

Our first stop was the home of Mrs. Esther Chilopora. Mrs. Chilopora is a 92-year-old widow who has been a long-time member of God’s Church and is a retired nurse, serving as the head matron of several hospitals. Her late husband, Dr. Sam Chilopora, was also a faithful member of God’s Church. We spent two hours with her, listening to her stories, and answering her questions. She loves God so much, she’s such a joy to be around.

We reluctantly took our leave of Mrs. Chilopora and headed back north toward the Lilongwe region, specifically toward Ngala Hill and Bunda Mountain. Ngala Hill is a rock mountain with a crevice that makes it look like it is smiling. Next to it is Bunda Mountain (it’s name means mute because Ngala Hill uses it’s mouth to talk and Bunda doesn’t have a mouth). Near the base of these two mountains is a village where Fraser and Jesse Nyalubwe live. Jesse and her husband Fraser built a home next door to her parents home. Across the way is the home of another sister. It was a pleasure to get to learn a little about their family history.

After a couple of hours of visiting we continued northeast to drop Haiton off at his vehicle. By the time we drove back to Nkhwazi it was nearly 10pm. It was a long day, but so worth it.

Day 2: Africa 2024 (July 3)

Day 2: Africa 2024 (July 3)

After I made my post last night, my stomach (and intestines) decided it was time to rebel. I spent a difficult night in the beautiful hotel in Ethiopia. I wish my first impressions of the country could have been better, but I survived. But I got almost no sleep before our 6:00am wake-up call arrived.

We skipped breakfast and headed outside to catch the shuttle bus to the airport (we were told that it would come every 15 minutes, and that we should be there for the 7am bus). We arrived to join the queue at 6:48am and it was already a long line.

The first bus showed up at 7am, right on time, but alas, instead of the bus we had arrived in, it was a mini bus, that could only hold 10 or so people… there were probably 80 people in line. No worries, we knew another bus would come at 7:15am. So we waited. Meanwhile, scoundrels and ne’er-do-wells began jumping the line, putting us all further and further back. The 7:15am bus came, and of course, we didn’t make it on, again. So we waited for the 7:30am bus and contemplated our options. We could see about getting a cab… we could see if Uber was even a thing in Ethiopia, or we could walk.

When 7:30am rolled around and no bus had arrived, we decided it was time to walk to the airport… probably another 15 people did the same thing at the same time. We never did see the big bus come back our way, I sure hope all those folks made it to their gates in time.

I was feeling marginally better this morning, but I was concerned about getting motion sickness since I was already on the edge of nausea, so I took a Dramamine. I’m glad I did. I slept through most of the flight to Malawi (we had an hour or so layover in Lubumbashi, DRC).

Immigration was a breeze this time, especially since you no longer need a visa to enter Malawi if you’re from the United States (there’s a whole list of countries that they did away with the visa requirement).

We were greeted outside by Cephas Chapamba, his son George, and Haiton Thungula. They were a welcome sight. We drove to Mchesi (where the Lilongwe Church hall is located) to outline our itinerary while we are in Lilongwe, before heading off into the night toward Nkhwazi (where Cephas and his wife live and run a medical clinic).

We were greeted at the Chapamba home by Dalles (Cephas’s daughter) and Patricia (Cephas’s wife). They made us a delicious meal of rice, nsima, fried chicken, chips, soup, and cabbage. I spilled 1/3 of a bottle of garlic Nali hot sauce on my plate before I began eating… I ate most of it.

I’m exhausted, but glad to be here.

View from our hotel is Addis
Greeting from the Chapamba’s: “welcome to your home far from home”
Lewis, Cephas Chapamba, Haiton Thungula, and me
The night sky with little light pollution

Day 0 – Africa 2024 (July 1)

Day 0 – Africa 2024 (July 1)

It’s finally here! We’re finally leaving for Africa (Ethiopia, Malawi, Zimbabwe, and South Africa to be exact) today… I haven’t been to Africa since 2019. Partly because of Covid-19 restrictions for two years, but also because I got very sick the last time I was there, which has led to a chronic illness that all the doctors I’ve seen since says isn’t real. Because of this, I’ve been hesitant to go again, not sure how my system will respond.

I’ve traveled internationally a couple of times in the last couple of years, and I’ve done okay, so I’m hoping that this trip will be the same. I know my triggers for my chronic illness, I know what to avoid. I also brought lots of food with me just in case anything happens. Hopefully they all make it through customs when we land in Malawi and then Zimbabwe.

I’m incredibly excited to see my beautiful Malawi again, and to spend time with all of my wonderful brethren there again. It’s been too long. I’m also excited to visit Zimbabwe for the first time, and meet more of God’s people.

I’m sure the next almost three weeks will be a blur, but I hope you’ll join me here for stories and photos when I am able to post.

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Tea Time in Thyolo

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Tea Time in Thyolo

After our exhausting, but exciting trip to Majete, we were headed back to Lilongwe so that Brianna and Noah could catch their flight. But we had time to make two stops along the way. 

First, we visited Thyolo, the region of southern Malawi where they grow tea and coffee. The Satemwa Tea and Coffee Estate (https://www.satemwa.com) is stunning. There are rolling hills of tea plants, lush natural forests, and (closer to the guest house) manicured lawns and gardens. If you ever find yourself in Malawi, take the time to visit this place. It’s beautiful and stately, and the gentle breezes carry the scents of freshly cut tea leaves. You can order an ice tea or cocktail that has tea incorporated. 

The happy group in Satemwa

From Satemwa we made our way to Dedza where we made a quick stop at the Dedza Handmade Art Company and the Dedza Pottery. 

I met Henry (the owner of Dedza Handmade Art) when we lived in Malawi in 2017. Henry is amazing; all of his paper products are recycled; he collects paper waste from companies around Dedza and Lilongwe and processes them into beautiful pieces of art: paper, notebooks, greeting cards.

Henry’s wife also makes beautiful cloth items (dolls, trivets, and notebook covers). His brother is an artist, he paints the fronts of the notebooks that Henry makes, as well as beautiful canvases. Every time we visit Henry’s shop he has added items to sell and made some kind of improvements. Again, if you ever find yourself in Malawi, go visit Henry at his shop (http://www.dedzahandmadeart.com/Dedza_Handmade_Art_Gallery/Welcome.html), it’s worth a visit, and if you go earlier enough in the day Henry might show you the process he uses for making paper.

Brianna is so beautiful

We made it back to Lilongwe late in the evening on Thursday. On Friday we dropped Noah and Brianna off at the airport. It was a privilege to show them a little bit of beautiful Malawi.

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: The Elephants Come Marching In…

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: The Elephants Come Marching In…

Generally speaking, Malawi is peaceful. However, since the election in May, there have been a number of demonstrations that are best to avoid. Unfortunately, the day we had planned to drive to Thyolo and Blantyre a demonstration was called, so we had to reschedule our plans. 

We left early (5am) to get to Blantyre before the demonstrations started later in the morning, and we had hoped to get checked into our hotel. Unfortunately, the guest house refused to honor our Airbnb reservation and wanted to charge us an additional $360 to stay there. After three hours negotiating with the guest house and talking to Airbnb customer service we were able to get a refund, and we booked elsewhere. It wouldn’t be Malawi if something didn’t go awry. 

At 4am the next morning we departed for the Majete Wildlife Reserve, because of the demonstrations the day before many of the gas stations were out of fuel, so we had to drive around a good half hour before we found an open and stocked station. Then, it was a two-hour drive on windy mountain roads to the park… it was at the park where we discovered that the alternator in the vehicle we hired was going bad and we couldn’t turn the car off. It’s probably better that way, the temperature was 111 degrees Fahrenheit, the air conditioner was definitely our friend. 

Majete Wildlife Reserve has the most variety of animals of all the reserves in Malawi. We didn’t see any lions, giraffes, or rhinos, but we did see a wide array of animals. They included: impala, greater kudu, waterbucks, bushbucks, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos, elephants, mongoose, monkeys, baboons, monitor lizards, geckos, and a bunch of birds. We were able to see several parades of elephants, it was definitely a highlight of the trip.

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: The Feast

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: The Feast

Wow! It’s hard to believe that the Feast of Tabernacles and the Eighth Day is over. You spend months planning, looking forward to, and preparing for the Feast, and just like that, it’s over.

I have hesitated to write this particular entry.

I’d love to give you a flowery entry filled with rosy views of this year’s Feast, but I can’t. This particular Feast has been one of the most challenging of my life.

At services on opening night I felt a warm flush start from my face and spread through my body, and that was the beginning of six days of vomiting and diarrhea. If I wasn’t in bed, I was in the “bathroom.”

Being sick is always challenging, but being sick whilst living in a booth and only having access to a bathhouse is even more challenging. Added to all of this, Lewis had to leave for Zimbabwe three days into my illness… I felt scared, and sad, and sick, and alone.

It should probably be noted that I’m a terrible sick person. I cry. A LOT. I mean, a lot a lot. I whine. I just don’t do well with being sick. And that’s in the best of circumstances… so you can sympathize with all of those that had to put up with me for those six days. 

I started feeling better on the seventh day of the Feast, and headed to services, only the heat was oppressive (over 103° F) and I started feeling queasy and went straight to bed. The same was true for the Eighth Day.

But, there are highlights to this difficult time. First, it forced me to call on God, and to rely on Him. Me having some gastrointestinal problem is a pretty small thing, and I was reminded that we should praise Him even if, well, even if anything (Psalms 34 and 42).

Second, so many people took such wonderful care of me. Nearly everyday a different group of women would stop by my booth just to chat and to check on me. People made extra trips to the village to buy me bananas or a cool drink. One of the deacons went to town and took the time to get me medicine and water. The other deacon (a doctor) gave me medicine and made sure I stayed hydrated. One lady stayed in my booth after Lewis left so I wouldn’t be alone. And two nights a lady washed my super gross dust-caked feet before bed so I could have something special at the Feast, and have clean feet before going to bed (I think she was kind of disgusted by me getting into bed with dirty feet).

So… this wasn’t my favorite post of this blog, but there are good things to focus on. I’ll post soon about our post-Feast travels.

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Home Again, Home Again…

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Home Again, Home Again…

After a brief layover in the DRC, we were in the air again, and on our way to Lilongwe. The Kamuzu airport in Lilongwe has received some cosmetic upgrades, but on the road from the airport we were greeted with the Malawi we remembered. Not a lot of cars, but loads of pedestrians, goats, chickens, bicycles, mini buses, and the occasional ox cart. With beautiful farms, dusty red roads, and blue sky as a back drop.

Nick and Megan Lamoureux live in the same apartment that we had, so it was comfortable very quickly; we even went grocery shopping at the same stores. There’s something to be said for familiarity.

On Sabbath we were back in our old church hall, it was wonderful to be reunited with our brethren. We received so many hugs, handholds, and smiles. As well as beautiful special music.

We’ve been given the (sometimes challenging) privilege of serving God’s people, and God has placed us in a variety of places. We leave a bit of our hearts wherever we’re go, and we’ll always be grateful for our time and these relationships we’ve been entrusted with. We’re not perfect, we make lots of mistakes, but I always hope that God’s people know that we love them, and everything we do comes from a place of love.

Beautiful special music performed by Amina, Emmanuel, Chimwemwe, and Juliana

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Flexibility, Patience, and Pandemonium

Feast of Tabernacles 2019: Flexibility, Patience, and Pandemonium

There are two traits that are especially handy when traveling: flexibility and patience. 

After touring Westminster Abbey we made our way to the airport to collect our stored luggage (four giant suitcases filled with generous gifts for our Malawian brethren from our brethren in the US). Of course where we stored our luggage was a different terminal than our take off… I think we added two miles to our step count just in the Heathrow airport.

The day before our departure we had received an email from Ethiopian Airlines informing us that our flight would leave 30 minutes earlier than scheduled, but we would arrive two hours later. Huh? They added a stop in the Democratic Republic of Congo, just an hour stop, no big deal, stay on the plane we’ll be on our way in no time. Except we couldn’t check in for our flight because we didn’t have a visa for the DRC. Well, now what? We waited in line at customer service for about thirty minutes, thankfully it was an easy fix, just a notation in the computer.

We checked our bags and looked to see what gate we would fly out from, only to discover that Heathrow doesn’t give you that information right away, so we found what we hoped would be a centrally located restaurant for dinner while we waited. As our food was being delivered they updated the status of our flight to boarding! We scarfed down our food and ran to our gate, just in time to weigh our carry-on. I was nervous because we only get 12kg, and I was told that my backpack would count toward that weight (Bibles and computers are heavy you guys)! Thankfully we slipped by without a hassle.

Cotton ball clouds on our descent into the DRC

Our main layover was in Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. I’ll try to explain this airport… because it is straight terrible. You land and they wheel stairs to the plane on the tarmac. They usher you to waiting buses where they cram you in like sardines, to take you to the terminal. They corral all arriving passengers (I counted four gates of disembarking folks) into a sort of a queue (if you count hundreds of people trampling each other a queue). This queue leads directly to security where all arriving passengers have to get searched once again. Pandemonium. Seriously. That is the only word I can think to adequately describe this situation. Straight pandemonium. People shoving others to get to the scanning belt, snatching bins out of others hands. I was pushed, shoved, and stepped on countless times before making through to the other side.

Unfortunately, this whole scenario doesn’t allow one to enter the main terminal (where you can find restaurants and shops), it forces you straight to your gate, where there is adequate seating for about half the passengers, that is, half the passengers IF those already sitting down aren’t taking up two or three chairs with leaning and backpacks. 

But we finally made it to Lilongwe where we were greeted by our dear friends Megan and Nick Lamoureux

Nick and Megan Lamoureux